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PEAK LENINA

PEAK KOMMUNIZMA 
PEAK KORJENEVSKOY

PEAK POBEDA

PEAK KHAN-TENGRI

PEAK ASAN-USAN AND KARAVSHIN

MUSTAG-ATA

KAMCHATKA

 

THE CENTRAL AND NORTHWESTERN PAMIRS

Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamirs are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000 meters above sea level in the Pamirs are in this area - Peak Communism (7,495 meters) and Peak Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105 meters) - and there is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2 km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. 


An avalanche 

There are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp, which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina glaciers converge, at 4,100 meters. This camp is the starting point for the climbs up Peak Communism and Peak Korzhenevskoy. 
The second camp is Suloev (or Fortanbek), on the plateau of the same name, where the Fortanbek glacier points northwards, opposite the Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. 
The climate in this region is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing season is very short; the best period is form mid-July to August 20. 

 


Peak Korzhenevskoy 7105 m:

Route along the southern crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966, 5A classic) is not too difficult and can be climbed in 5 days after a suitable acclimatization period. Most USSR climbers used BC Achik-Tash (Peak Lenin) for acclimatization before attempting the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoy and Peak Communism.

BC Moskvina 4100
BC-Camp 1 5300 m (8 hours)
C!-Camp 2 5800 m (6 hours)
C2-Camp 3 6300m (7 hours)
C3-summit-C2 7105m (ascent 8 hours)
C2-BC Moskvina

Peak Communism 7495 m:

Route along the Waltera glacier up to the Barodkin ridge (opened by J. Barodkin in 1968, 5A classic). After careful acclimatization (that includes a climb to the Pamir Plateau, 6200m and back or ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoy 7105m) the route to the summit takes about 6-7 days.

BC Moskvina 4100m
BC-Camp1 5300m (8 hours)
C1-Camp2 6200m (9 hours)
C2-Camp3 6900m (8 hours)
C3-summit-C3 7495m (ascent 9 hours)
C3-Camp 1 C1-BC Moskvina
Day 21: Transfer by helicopter from Moskvina Glacier to Ter-Sagar
Day 22: Transfer by car Ter-Sagar-Osh (hotel)
Day 23: Transfer by car Osh-Bishkek (hotel)
Day 24: Departure after breakfast with International flight from Bishkek.

II. Program Peak Korzhenevskoy and Peak Communism with use off helicopter.

Day1-3: See program 1.
Day4: Acclimatization in Ter-Sagar.
Day 5: Transfer by helicopter from Ter-Sagar to Moskvina Glacier (BC
Moskvina).
Day 6-27: 22 days Moskvina Glacier
Day 28: Transfer by helicopter from Moskvina Glacier to Ter-Sagar.
Day 29: Transfer by car Ter-Sagar-Osh (hotel)
Day 30: Transfer by car Osh-Bishkek (hotel).
Day 31: Departure after breakfast with International flight from Bishkek

 

About company

Tours

About Kyrgyzstan

Silk road

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