Peak
Korzhenevskoy 7105 m:
Route along the southern
crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in 1966, 5A classic) is not too difficult
and can be climbed in 5 days after a suitable acclimatization period.
Most USSR climbers used BC Achik-Tash (Peak Lenin) for acclimatization
before attempting the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoy and Peak Communism.
BC Moskvina 4100 BC-Camp 1 5300 m (8 hours) C!-Camp 2 5800 m (6 hours) C2-Camp 3 6300m (7 hours) C3-summit-C2 7105m (ascent 8 hours) C2-BC Moskvina
Peak
Communism 7495 m:
Route along the Waltera
glacier up to the Barodkin ridge (opened by J. Barodkin in 1968,
5A classic). After careful acclimatization (that includes a climb
to the Pamir Plateau, 6200m and back or ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoy
7105m) the route to the summit takes about 6-7 days.
BC Moskvina 4100m BC-Camp1 5300m (8 hours) C1-Camp2 6200m (9 hours) C2-Camp3 6900m (8 hours) C3-summit-C3 7495m (ascent 9 hours) C3-Camp 1 C1-BC Moskvina Day 21: Transfer by helicopter from Moskvina Glacier to
Ter-Sagar Day
22: Transfer by car Ter-Sagar-Osh (hotel) Day 23: Transfer by car Osh-Bishkek (hotel)
Day 24: Departure after breakfast
with International flight from Bishkek.
II.
Program Peak Korzhenevskoy and Peak Communism with use off helicopter.
Day1-3: See program 1.
Day4: Acclimatization
in Ter-Sagar. Day
5: Transfer by helicopter from Ter-Sagar to Moskvina Glacier (BC
Moskvina).
Day 6-27: 22 days Moskvina
Glacier Day 28:
Transfer by helicopter from Moskvina Glacier to Ter-Sagar.
Day 29: Transfer by car
Ter-Sagar-Osh (hotel) Day
30: Transfer by car Osh-Bishkek (hotel). Day 31: Departure after breakfast with International flight
from Bishkek |