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"The grandiose Tien
Shan mountain system extends from  the ends of the
horizon with its glaciers and snowfields. This entire region is
illumined by the gold, orange and red of dusk, while Peak. Khan
Tengri towers from on high, like a gigantic faceted ruby stone mounted
on a dark turquoise sky" (M. Pogrebetskiy, 1931).
One thousand two hundred
years ago Khan Tengri (Lord of the Spirits) was first mentioned
in Chinese chronicles. Many famous explorers and mountaineers such
as Semionov and Merzbacher tried to reach it. The Ukrainian alpinist
M. Pogrebetskiy was the first person who succeeded in climbing it
(1931). Passing from the south, he managed to solve the difficult
problem of getting enough provisions for his long-term expedition
in such a wild area by taking a caravan of horses to the foot of
the mountain. He then found the most logical way up to the top,
which is now considered the classical route.
The
southern face of Khan Tengri seen from the Southern Engilchek glacier
In 1964 B. Romanov and
K. Kusmin opened the northern rib on the side of Northern Engilchek,
on what is called the Marble Rib, along a series of marble chimneys
from 6,000 to 7,000 meters altitude. The eastern face was first
climbed only in 1988.
The most difficult routes from a technical standpoint
are on the northern face, which rises up for 2,000 meters. They
were opened in 1974 by E. Mislovskiy and B. Studetin. The climb
up Khan Tengri is difficult indeed because of the extreme conditions;
the frequent bad weather, the hurricane-like winds and the extremely
low temperature. On an average the ascent up the normal route takes
twelve days. The record for the base camp - summit - base camp course
is fourteen and-a-half hours, set by Gleb Sokolov, who won the contest
held at Khan Tengri in August 1992.
Khan-Tengri
Peak (7010 m)
The best season is from
10th of July till 20th of August.
The ascent starts from the base camp "Inylchek".
After the first ascent in 1931 (M.Pogrebetsky), climbers have used
more than 10 very difficult routes from all four sides. But not
all new routes have been exhausted yet. The program includes an
ascent on the classical, safest route on the west edge from the
Semenovsky glacier. The necessary help will be given to those who
have any difficulties.
The
usual tactics which are used on the classical routes:
- 6 km crossing of the
South Inylchek glacier, ascending 200 m to the stationary "Shubin's
stop" bivouac (4300 m);
- along the narrow and steep Semenovsky glacier you should
ascend to the upper mould and at an altitude of 5800 m under the
west column pitch Camp 1. After 2 nights and 6200-6500 m ascent
you should descent to the Base Camp. After the rest day 2 days of
ascent to the Camp 1 with new baggage for high altitude camps. Its
necessary to start early in the morning in order to avoid avalanches
that are more probable in the afternoon;
- reach an altitude of 6300-6400 m and pitch Camp 2;
- ascent 300 m and pinch
Camp 3 under the summit at an altitude of 6700 m during the day
you should reach the summit and descent to the Camp 3. The way from
the bulkhead goes on rocks with good ledges on snow and ice fields
its necessary to hang up the rail on the most dangerous places (about
280 m);
- descent
to the Camp 2 and than to the Camp 1;
- descent to the Base Camp. |
