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History:
Over the years I made lots of racingcars in paper as well as in plastic. However
well the body has become the total result can be drastically minimised when the
wheel and tyres are not near to perfect. Therefore I always try to give
them much attention. This goes for both paper and plastic models. In most cases
the builder has the best influence on the final result at paper models. Plastic
kits have almost completed tyres, whilst the paper kit gives a few flat
parts which have to be shaped by the builder.
The Model:
In this example I used the 1/12-scaled papermodel of the Williams FW-26.
This modelkit is a free download on: www.metamania.com
The model represents the 2004-season Formula-1-car with its destinctive nose:
the tusk-nose or walrus-nose.
The tyres used were of the grooved type. The tread has 4 grooves. This is
something that on most paper models is represented by just a dark line. The
grooves are not represented, the tread is simply flat.... I decided to add
this extra significant detail. The 1/12 scaled wheel is too big to just go with
the flat surface.
Construction:
The idea was to use the "bad" habit of waterbased glue to make
paper expand and (re-)solving waterbased paints.
First to do was printing a second part of the tyres tread. Also I
added some extra parts: the picture shows a strip of paper of the same width as
the tread-part and almost twice its length. Later 2 extra rings were added to
double the tyre-sides. The outside diameter is around 4 millimeter bigger,
whilst the inner circle is the same as the side. These extra's were needed
because I left-off the gluetabs.
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The extra tread-part was cutted in 5 seperate strips by removing the 4 printed grooves, the black lines. All edges were blackened with waterbased paint from a kids paintbox. This paint can be resolved by making it wet again. The use if this comes later at hands.
Next to do was making the sides and the basic tread of the tyre.
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The rims'parts are a simple go together ending in 2 bucket-shaped parts which will be fitted in the tyre-sides. In picture 05 you can see how I used the extra ring. After drying the ring was cutted in small tabs and scored exactly on the edge of the black side. This edge was also blackened with a felt. The coned ring, making the tyre-shoulder, was blackenend too at the edges. Picture 06 shows how the two go together and how the 'buckets' fit in.
The basic tread was done by using the white strip mentioned earlier. Both were curled and glued halfway upon eachother. Now first the printed tread-part is fitted precisely against its other end upon the strip, closing the circle. Finally some glue is smeared between the loose ends and also pressed together. After drying this gives a strong round tube.
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Sofar I only used solvent-based glue. The reason for that is when the parts are dry the still have some flexibility. Espacially when parts are glued upon echaother the total becomes very hard and stiff when dry. And we don't want that in this situation.... Another advantage is that there's almost none expanding of the paper and therefore the exact shape and fit will stay intact. But there is a Cruyffian' proverb: 'every advantage has it's disadvantage'. In this case it's the shine of the dried glue. On a part supposed to be matt you have to be very careful not to smear glue on unwanted places! Especially at butt-joints this easily happens. And this how the sides and rims are glued together! So at the sides and the tread is done with waterbased glue. Used very sparingly to avoid expanding and distortion. And now the advantage of the paint comes at hand for the first time. The glue becomes black and is extra matted.
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When the tread is closed at both sides it's time to add the grooves. Not by cutting them in but by layering-up the surrounding area. For the second time the advantage of the paint and the waterbased glue is used: the strips are sparingly covered with glue and given some time to let the water expand and soften the paper. Now one end is set on its place hand hold firmly with one hand. With the other hand I wrap the rest around the wheel. Whilst wrapping I stretched the strip at the same time. Pulled gently and with feel for the material, so it won't break. This way I almost got what I wanted: the circle was almost closed. Just a small gap left... So for the next wheel there will be an extra millimeter cutted from the basic part. Picture 11 shows te result when all strips are done. As you can see there's hardly any shine due to glue pressed out.
Last things to do are: set aside to dry (easy), do some sanding of the shoulder-tread-edge and drop some black paint there. Whilst drying the strips are slimming again and close firmly around the tread. Eventually pressed-out glue is black and matt and almost invisible. Then the edges are sanded to give it a rounded shape and even surface. Used rough and fine waterproof sandingpaper for this. Finally the white places are blackened with the waterbased paint. My method: carefully put up the paint and before it gets dry (only a few seconds) rub it with my finger!
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And are these real grooves or not ? Picure11 shows the tyre before sanding. The final result is in picure 13 and in a big picture at the top of this page. Maybe my explanation can help you to get the same or better results. If not I hope it was at least fun to read!
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