The XZ-pin
I learned to dislike…..
The XZ lower shock
absorber mount.
I had the same problem
before, with the XZ we bought for parts. That pin was completely tight in the rear
fork. Now it appears that the XZ with sidecar has the same problem. I immersed
it three days in penetrating oil and in WD-40. Hammering hard had no effect, so
I started to bore holes at the two sides of the pin. I have a spare pin and a
spare shock absorber, but I want to keep the rear fork undamaged as this
specimen is strengthened to accept the holder of the stabilizer between the
sidecar and the bike.
Each
side of the pin was bored. Start of cutting (arrow)
No result of the hardest of
hammering. I decide to saw off the shock absorber so I can take away the
plastic mudguard part. After that the central part of the pin can be cut and
this part can be removed together with the eye of the shock absorber. Thus cutting the problem in two.
After cutting away the
central part of the pin, the left side of the pin can be hammered out. A
grinder removes what is still sticking out at the left side.
Shock
absorber removed. Red arrow: stabilizer fixing point.
Now
there is room for a hacksaw
A punch can
now drive out the left side of the pin.
A
grinder removes the end of the pin.
The pin
is bored. It is heated until the total eye and pin are dull red.
Even after being heated
until dull red and bored from two sides (ca 6 mm holes) the pin does not give
way. It is so hard! It is so rusted tight in the hole!
I decide to remove the fork
from the bike. I take out the big bolt of the swing arm. This bolt, at least,
behaves as a good boy. I can now take out the fork. I inspect the needle
bearing, dust caps and the central pin of the swing arm. Fortunately everything
appears to be in good condition, and I can put new heat resistant (exhaust is
near!) grease in the bearings.
I take the fork to a friend
who is a better mechanic than I am. He suggests to try
to remove the pin on his large, heavy metal anvil. I hold the fork on the anvil
in such a manner that the right side of the eye rests squarely on the anvil. My
suggestion to put wood between anvil and eye is rejected. Hammering on wood
does not have the same impact as on iron. My friend hammers the pin with a
punch and a real heavy weight hammer. The punch has to fit between the left
side eye from which the small part of the pin has
already been removed. He gives one BIG blow. The pin begins to move.
The remains of the cut and bored pin.
The “new” pin loosely in the right side hole.
At last, after two days
work, the pin is out and that of the parts XZ is in (picture above). This pin will
be cleaned and fitted well-greased and it will be removed at two years
intervals.
I am not the only one with
this problem. Dutch XZ-rider Tremalzo had the same
problem: http://www.motor-forum.nl/forum/topic.php/83879/2
for anybody who can read his story in Dutch.
Oh, Yamaha, why did you not
put a decent Allen bolt at this place??
Well, now this all is taken
apart it is time to make sure all parts are well-protected for corrosion before
all is fitted again! And even we can easily remove the pipes of the rear
cylinder now, and the hinges of the central stand, and much more. Wow, problems
yield opportunities also!
At the end of this
experience, I have two advises:
- check if this pin is tight or moves before you buy an
XZ. Not so difficult: there is a rubber plug at the left side, behind the
battery. That is normally completely in line with the iron fork eye. If
you hammer against it, it will move to the other side against the cotter
pin. That is just half a mm or so, but you can
feel it moves in. If it doesn’t, the risk is there that you have a real
problem to get this pin out.
- If you have a bike with this pin completely
rusted and completely stuck, such as the one discussed above, take out the
rear wheel, remove the front bolt of the shock absorber, and take out the
rear fork by removing the large bolt from the right. Use a real heavy iron
anvil or find someone with such an anvil. Put the right side of the hole
of the pin squarely on it and someone else should hammer it real hard with
a stout punch. I learned yesterday, 17 February 2006, that such a part
must rest on a support that does not give way a millimeter. My friend
advises, if such a pin cannot be moved in this manner, to heat it dull red
and let it cool down. In this way, the parts unified by corrosion start to
separate. Then try again. Certainly, if your anvil is heavy enough and
supported really good, your punch and your hammer
stout enough, you will remove the pin. Take advantage of the situation to
make the area of the pipes of the rear cylinder, the back part of the
frame, the front part of the rear fork corrosion-resistant.
XZv2