A different oil cooler

I fear that an XZ with
sidecar has even more problems with hot oil, resulting in burned stators. I
studied Lucky’s beautiful oil cooler and I used this as an inspiration. Very clever
oil cooler made with much knowledge on the internals of the oil system of the
XZ.
BUT: is it possible to have
an oil cooler that does not require cutting thread in the engine, or, is it
possible to have an oil cooler that is interchangeable between XZ’s?? Other idea: use as much XZ parts as possible because
I have a spare bike.
The only obvious place for
fittings to and from an oil cooler is the oil filter
housing. So seeing where the oil enters the oil filter housing and where it
leaves the oil filter, I started to think of separating the IN and the OUT of
the oil filter housing.
I thought of the following
construction:
Ingredients: three XZ oil
filter housings, an iron plate of 5 mm thickness and ca 100 x 100 mm length and
width, an iron pipe between this plate and the crankcase, a rubber of an XZ air
filter, and an oil cooler including pipes and fittings
of an XJ-model: a 600, 650 or XJ900 of the 80’s.
Two oil filter housings were
cut and made completely flat by a friend with a lathe.


I cut and filed the 5 mm
iron plate, made holes in it, tapped three 6 mm threads in it and welded a
short pipe on it on which a rubber oil seal of an XZ oil filter fits.
All parts were fitted with Yamabond or Locktite 510 oil/heat
resistant sealer.


I cut part of the XJ oil
cooler house (the round house between crankcase and oil cooler pipes, see photo
above, left) and filed it half-round to fit the curve of the XZ oil filter
housing. I bored holes and bolted this fitting to the XZ filter housing using Locktite 510 or Yamabond. On this
fitting you can screw the O-ring fitted line that brings the oil to the cooler
itself. I needed an extra spacer in between (right photo above, right
forefront) because the oil pipe just touched the bottom of the XZ crankcase without
this extra spacer. It is made of aluminum, and, therefore, easy to cut and file
and bore. You see all mounted in the photo left below: three parts: screwed on
the filter housing is the piece made of the XJ-part of the photo left above, on
that comes the spacer of 6 mm aluminum and on that comes the O-ring using end
of the oil pipe. Two screws and nuts fit the part directly to the filter
housing. Both other parts are screwed to this using the internal thread in the
XJ piece; all connections are leak-free probably thanks to Yamabond
that is used at the connections.


The return-pipe is fitted to the end of the
filter housing (C) by thread (thick wall part and by thread + nut (thin wall
part), see last photo right.


I prefer this place for the
return-line because I fear that fitting it to the side-wall of the filter-house
(such as I see in Lucky’s construction) may damage the oil filter. Lucky
explained to me now that he fits the metal strengthened part at the location of
the oil entrance. It depends on the strength and pressure of the oil, but with
this end fitting the force of the oil comes at the metal part of the oil filter
strengthened by a flat metal washer (see picture). The disadvantage of my
construction may be that the oil pressure opens the relief valve at the end of
the oil filter. I changed the construction now by putting a round metal plate
(actually a 50 eurocents coin that fits exactly) at the end with a 5 mm and a 3
mm hole in it. In this way the full oil stream cannot open the relieve valve
easily, but in the unlikely event of a filter blockade oil can still pass
through the relieve valve.
The rubber seals between the
filter housings and the iron 5 mm plate are XZ parts. They were cut from
the rubbers between the air filter housing and the carburetors.


The oil cooler for the
sidecar-XZ was the first I made. In the mean time I prepared a second metal
plate + pipe, obtained extra filter houses and thought of a better, easier
construction. I bought JBWeld and I think of gluing
the housing A to the metal plate and gluing the oil lines to their filter
housing, gluing filter house B and C together and only keep the rubber fitting
between iron plate and filter house B to be able to change the oil filter. I would
prefer an copper ring here but I cannot find one of
the proper size up to now.
Disadvantages of this
construction: many connections that should be oil tight, and a construction
that protrudes wide to the right, in such a way that it may be easily damaged
by dropping the bike. For a XZ with sidecar no problem, for a solo-XZ I have to
think of some way to protect the construction.
The total construction
should be precise and free from internal leaks. If not (part of) the oil
bypasses the cooler and filter. There is no control on this, except a check
that the cooler indeed becomes hot.
Advantage: it seems to work:
the oil cooler becomes hot. This construction cools the oil and it makes the
oil quantity ca 0,3 liter larger, which is 10% of the
original. Not only the oil cooler capacity but also the capacity
of the extra filter housings.
Also the addition to the quantity adds to the cooling effect. I intend
to paint the three filter housings black, perhaps still adding a bit to the
cooling effect.
XZv2