Click on any thumbnail picture to view the full-size photo.

She is no glitzy, flashy cruise ship, yet has a beautiful outdoor swimming pool with spa, comfortable lounges, restaurants and even balcony suites. She is FINNMARKEN, the new ship in the famous Norwegian coastal service fleet. Built in Norway by Kleven Verft for owners OVDS (Ofotens og Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab), the 15,553 ton FINNMARKEN is a true hybrid. After all, while carrying her 643 cruise passengers and 350 deck passengers in comfort, she also has a car deck holding up to 50 private cars and acts as lifeline for many remote communities along the Norwegian coast. She is as much a modern cruise vessel as she is a work horse, and I was thrilled to be able to step on board FINNMARKEN in Amsterdam on April 13th, 2002 for a visit that quickly revealed how fascinating this ship really is. 

FINNMARKEN was built especially for the 11-day Norwegian coastal voyage, better known as "Hurtigruten" (or "Fast Route"). Since 1893 ships have plied the 1,352 nautical miles between Bergen and Kirkenes to deliver passenger and freight to places that could not be reached by road. A lot has changed in the last 109 years, but the importance of the coastal fleet in today's high tech world should not be underestimated. A fleet of eleven coastal ships now provides a daily year-round service to 33 towns and villages along the whole Norwegian coast, accounting for as much as 60% of the income of several ports.

Apart from providing a vital lifeline for many communities, the Hurtigruten ships have always attracted a loyal following of roundtrip passengers. On the old steamers of yesteryear, facilities were quite basic, but in recent years the two operators on the route (OVDS and Trondheim-based TFDS - soon to be merged into the Nord Norges Dampskibsselskap or NNDS) have heavily invested in new tonnage that represents the best of both worlds. With amenities that would suit any modern cruise ship, the owners now lure cruise passengers for the complete 11-day roundtrip, while at the same time catering to local folk that see the ship as a mere means of transportation.  

More about the Hurtigruten service later. It's time to board FINNMARKEN and have a look at the public areas. Honoring two earlier ships of the same name, Hurtigruten's house designer Arne Johansen has chosen an Art Nouveau theme for FINNMARKEN's interiors. Little touches of this elaborate decorating style can be found everywhere; from elevator doors to signage. The result is quite remarkable, and while some areas might be considered a little "over-decorated", the whole ship breathes a luxurious welcoming and comforting atmosphere. 

The high-tech automated gangway brings passengers directly to the spacious reception area on deck 3. As this ship operates on a 24/7 basis, with port calls around the clock, reception is always open. To make up for the lack of daylight, colors here are sunny, with oranges and yellows that nicely complement the laminated wooden flooring.

The forward stairtower, topped by a glass roof, brings us all the way up to deck 8, where the vast Brotoppen Observation Lounge is THE place to watch Norway's beautiful fjord land pass by. Located on the highest deck directly above the bridge, the views from this room are unsurpassed. Angled floor to ceiling windows make sure the Midnight Sun is not reflected in the windows, while a huge skylight makes even the center of the room bright and airy.

This wonderful lounge is decorated in a nautical style, with maritime memorabilia everywhere. A wall of glass-fronted book cases let passenger read all about Norwegian heritage, while a fully-stocked bar ensures no one suffers from dehydration. Seating is in some very comfortable swivel chairs that (in keeping with the theme of the ship) would have looked very stylish in my grandmother's house, but somehow do add charm to the room. Across from the elevator lobby, two doors lead to a large sheltered outdoor deck where die-hard nature lovers can be found at all hours.