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Day 7 - October 8th, 2000

Santorini, Greece

One of the mules that transport people up and down the mountain in Santorini

Today we have decided to sleep in ... until 8.30 AM that is. By the time we step out on deck MILLENNIUM is safely anchored in the one-time crater of Santorini, and steep bleak mountains tower from the sea directly astern. It is a beautiful sight to see the town of Thera perched like snow atop the mountain. Snow? It is actually raining and we flee inside with our overloaded breakfast trays. When we have digested the offerings of the omelette station, we return to the cabin and slowly prepare ourselves for a day on Santorini. Since it's Sunday, we take it easy, and it's not before 11 AM that we step aboard one of the local tender boats that provide the transportation to the dock. When we reach the tiny harbor, the sun comes out and the temperature rises. This is NICE! Now: we can either take a mule up the 600 or so steps, WALK to town using that same 600 steps (what a ridiculous thing to do on a Sunday morning), or take the cable car. Easy decision!

The white town of Thera is one of the most photographed in Greece, and even though we have seen dozens of photos of this place, it's still thrilling to see it for yourself. In fact, it's all breathtakingly beautiful and slightly surreal. Deep down is our huge ship, reduced to the size of a stamp, with OLYMPIC VOYAGER and SONG OF FLOWER looking like needle pins. Narrow cobblestone alleys connect white plastered houses with taverna's, small shops and a few hotels. The funny thing is that it doesn't feel overly touristy, but the fact that it's Sunday and that the tourist season is almost over might have something to do with that. Plus, there's a huge black cloud coming our side real fast. Run and seek shelter! After a brief downpour which we use to do some shopping, call the homefront and talk to Tom & "Mike", we decide to find a place to eat. We end up in a small taverna with bright blue wooden chairs and a "back to basics" feel to it. We enjoy the tatziki and gyros here, and feel absolutely Greek. The sun has made a triumphant return when we leave the restaurant. When we walk back to the cliffside my mobile phone rings - it's my friend Jan calling from his balcony on the EXPLORER OF THE SEAS. He's sailing on a pre-inaugural trip from Southampton, England and tells me the EXPLORER is the most stunning ship he's ever laid his eyes on. I will have to another two months to see if he's right!

We enjoy the warm sunshine for some time sitting on a stone bench overlooking the bay (it's wonderful!) and all too soon it's time to head downhill and rejoin our ship. We decide to WALK down the 600 steps, and we are not sorry. Even though our 30-minute tranquil descend is disturbed by hordes of gallopping mules. The views of the bay are simply stunning, and we are very sorry to leave this fascinating island. A short but bumpy tender ride brings us back to MILLENNIUM, where the smell of freshly baked pizza leads us to the Pool Bar. Onyx provides the music, lounge chairs are once again readily available and waiters run on and off with drinks. Just after 7 PM the anchor is raised and our huge ships sails away from Santorini, leaving behind a black mountain topped with thousands of lights. We stand on deck watching this spectacle for a long time until we are really cold. And what better way warm up than an AquaSpa bath? We're just a little late for dinner, and we enjoy swapping today's stories with Judith and Kees. Social Hostess Amanda Reid stops by and tells us our table is known by the waiters as "the happy table". Which probably means we make too much noise...

Dinner does not disappoint at all. The watermelon gazpacho is wonderful, as is the veal medaillon with citrus sauce. The clock strikes 10.45 PM when we leave the dining room and head for Internet Cafe to check our e-mail. You've got NO mail... So it's off to the Celebrity Theater for "Dream Ticket" - a full-blown television game show hosted by our own Cruise Director. Although VERY much meant for our fellow Americans, we enjoy it nonetheless. After showtime it's off to the Pool Deck for a deck party. MILLENNIUM floats under a cloudless sky, and the moon lights the beautiful "Fruit & Sherbet Midnight Buffet" that is set up between the two pools. Onyx play their best loved tunes, the ice carvers work on a frozen pony, tuxedo-clad waiters present their "Melons on Parade", the ship's photographer are dressed up as the eternal pirates and the Cruise Staff do their utmost to get the crowd on the dance floor. It's a fun event that has just the right atmosphere to it. By the time the buffet is raided and Onyx plays the "Electric Slide" for the third time, we call it a night.

Day 8 - October 9th, 2000

Heraklion, Greece

ALBATROS (ex FAIRWIND/DAWN PRINCESS) and MILLENNIUM docked in Heraklion

Today is the day I feel like doing nothing. MILLENNIUM has arrived in the city of Heraklion on the Greek island of Crete, and so has the "golden oldie" ALBATROS which is docked right behind us. We have to cling to the railing when we get outside, because there's a VERY stiff breeze blowing. Huge clouds hide the sun and Heraklion looks like ... just a city. I decide NOT to get off the ship. Well, to be honest I do accompany my friends off the ship and walk up and down the quay snapping a photo or two. While Lucy and Ilona discover all that Heraklion has to offer (which is not too much they tell me later), I hop back on board, grab my book and Discman, find a sheltered spot and doze off in a lounge chair on the Pool Deck. That is until I feel that someone is tying my shoe laces together - yes, it's indeed our table mate Judith! She and Kees have walked through town for two hours and have seen nothing interesting. Which makes my decision to stay on board even better!

Strengthened by the thought that I'm not missing much I grab a bite from the lunch buffet and wait for Ilona and Lucy to return. They reappear at around 3 PM, telling stories about fish mongers, sunken fishing boats and open air markets. They have spent their last Drachmes on herbs, spices and other nice things. They have even bought me a present! Although they obviously have enjoyed themselves, the ladies agree with Judith that Heraklion has not much to offer to the casual tourist. By 4 PM we are ready to leave for Civitavecchia, and MILLENNIUM slowly leaves the port. The sky is blue, the band plays and the Cretian mountains look very impressive seen from the sea. After 10 minutes we are again blown off the deck and we have to find a sheltered spot to finish our drinks. Lounge chairs are flying through the air, the sea turns black and white waves appear. Picking up speed, our proud ship slices through the rough seas with no noticeable movement, which gives us the chance to get another cup of tea (Lucy's first cup was blown overboard), and generally RELAX - which is probably for the first time on this cruise.

Flambéed Scampi
Prawns, wrapped in pancetta, flamed in Armagnac and served on a bed of rocket leaves

Grilled Fillet of Bass
Fillet of Sea Bass. brushed with tapenade and served with grilled vegetables
(accompanied by a glass of Chardonnay, Savigny-Lès-Beaune Rlanc 1997)

Waldorf Pudding as served on the RMS Olympic in 1914
A creamy vanilla pudding flavored with a hint o f nutmeg, diced apples and sultana grapes

This is what you can call "A Night To Remember!".

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- e-mail: b.de.boer@tip.nl